How to apply foundation on wrinkles for a flawless finish
-Sep 5, Hannah Hargrave, Beauty -
Applying foundation is an entirely different ball game when you’ve got a few fine lines. But with this detailed step-by-step guide by a makeup marvel you can achieve a flawless, natural looking finish.
As you age, applying foundation can unfortunately become tricky. All too often women stick to the routine and the products they’ve relied on for years because they don’t know how to alter it to work with their changing skin.
Beauty expert Candice Meggan insists that if you use her multi-pronged strategy you can achieve a fresh look that will look perfect.
There are four steps to a flawless complexion
“As we mature it’s a good idea to look at which products we use and swap them out for formulations more suitable for your skin type,” says Candice. “Try using cream blushers and highlighters instead of powdered versions. Try a primer, use a tinted moisturiser instead of full coverage foundations, invest in colour correctors and a good quality concealer as these will allow you to wear less foundation but still look flawless. However none of this is going to help one bit if you don’t start with a great skincare routine.”
Here are my steps to a flawless complexion:
2. Prime and colour correction
3. Foundation/tinted moisturiser
“Start with your full skincare regime and ensure your skin is hydrated and plumped ready to receive your makeup. It’s important to layer your skincare as this will actually reduce the amount of product that you require for each layer.”
– Start of with a spritz of rose water toner as this calms and soothes the skin (and it smells amazing!)
– Next apply your serum (I recommend a hyaluronic acid serum) and massage this in all the way down the neck and décolletage
– Massage a few of drops of Lumity Facial Oil in all over the face, neck and décolletage. This will help seal in the rose water toner and serum that you have just applied.
– Apply a small amount of moisturiser and massage in upward motions again taking this all the way down the neck and décolletage.
– Lastly apply an eye cream around the eye area.
Candice continues: “Find a primer that works for your skin type, silicon based primers are great at blurring fine lines and wrinkles but if you are prone to breakouts the silicon tends to exacerbate them. If this is the case for you then stick to a water-based primer.
“If you want to amp up the ‘glow’ factor then use a primer with an iridescent finish as this will also help to even out the complexion. You can apply it all over or just in the areas you feel need the most blurring. Once completed colour correcting of the skin can begin.”
Below is a simple guide to colour correcting. A palette will have an array of different colours so you can use the right shade for the right problem area.
Orange – Helps to tone down dark spots or dark complexions
Yellow – Helps to conceal purple or dark toned shadows on tan/olive complexions (adds radiance)
Peach – Neutralises purple/blue shadows on medium complexions (under eyes)
Pink – Neutralises blue toned spots on fair complexions (under eyes)
Lavender – Neutralises yellow tones (Brightens dull skin)
Green – Neutralises redness (great for rosacea and red patches)
“Now for that all important step – foundation, and the right tools for application here are vital,” explains Candice. “I recommend using a tinted moisturiser as it still provides some coverage but leaves you with a natural finish. If you prefer to use your fingers for application then by all means continue, however my preference is to use a large fluffy powder brush or a beauty blender.
“This way you achieve even coverage and an airbrushed dewy finish to the skin. They help to blend the foundation out smoothly and spread it evenly so it doesn’t settle in the fine lines.”
TIP: Colour match your foundation to your neck and décolletage rather than your face, this ensures you don’t end up with that dreaded tideline or a lighter/darker colour than your body.
Using a brush
– Split your face into four sections (top left and top right/bottom left and bottom right) and apply the tinted moisturiser with your fingers to one section.
– Use the brush to blend/stipple from the inside out in gentle tapping motions. By stippling the foundation you won’t disturb the colour correcting that you’ve just finished.
– Do the same for each section until you have completed your whole face ensuring there are no lines and the foundation is blended seamlessly.
TIP: If you don’t have a tinted moisturiser, then I recommend mixing a drop of Lumity Facial Oil into your foundation (don’t over do it though as it will thin out the foundation too much). This will give you a lovely dewy finish.
Using a blender
“It is vital that you prep your blender prior to foundation application otherwise you won’t achieve a dewy flawless finish,” insists Candice.
– Start by holding it under a running tap squeezing it so you soak it as you would a normal sponge.
– Once sufficiently wet squeeze out all the excess water, wrap the blender in a towel and lightly squeeze out any further excess water. It should now be damp but not soaking wet.
– Using the same process as before split your face into four sections (top left and top right/bottom
left and bottom right) and apply the tinted moisturiser with your fingers to one section.
– Then using the rounded end of the blender in a bouncing motion, blend from the inside out. For fuller coverage you can go over each section again and this will build the coverage.
– Use the pointed end of the blender to blend under the eyes and around the nose ensuring that you maintain the bouncing/stippling method, this creates a seamless professional finish.
TIP: If using a full coverage foundation and you haven’t already added the Lumity directly to your foundation, put a couple of drops of the facial oil onto your blender before blending your foundation out. Again this helps achieve a dewy sheer finish.
“The final step is to conceal any stubborn blemishes, dark circles or pigmentation that need that extra bit of coverage. I highly recommend using a soft fluffy concealer brush to maintain the airbrushed finish you have just created in steps 1, 2 and 3.
“I suffer with melasma/pigmentation on my jawline, but I have learned how to conceal it so that it is almost unnoticeable.”
– I start with two tones of concealer, a pale tone and then a warmer tone matched to my foundation.
– Pat the paler tone with your finger over the desired area then use the soft fluffy brush (or micro blender) to blend it out in small (light) circular motions.
– Apply the warmer tone on top of the pale tone in the same way, this helps to build the coverage and colour matches the rest of your face.
For discolouration under eyes and around the nose
– Use your fingers to apply the concealer (the warmth of your fingers will help to melt the concealer so it blends seamlessly)
– Gently buff it out with the brush or micro blender. If your preference is to use a micro blender then just apply the same principle as with the large blender in a bouncing/stippling motion.
After all your hard work putting your foundation on, you probably don’t even want to think about taking it off, but there are some very good reasons you should never sleep in your makeup and here’s our guide to makeup tips for women over 50.
Lede image by Felippe Meggio